Thursday, November 04, 2010

Thattai - Savory crisp for Diwali

Thattai is a favorite at home. But its not often made since its time consuming. And when it comes to festivals, we are ready to go that extra mile and I decided thattai has to be made for this Diwali. Since my MIL is with me, she helped in patting the discs, which made it easier for me.  And when it comes to Diwali menu, the constant item is Ribbon Pakoda. And I usually go for 2 savouries and 3 sweets.  While at home town, the flour mill was nearby. All I had to do was to prepare the rice for pounding and my maid will get it done from the flour mill. Here I am to locate a flour mill. And I doubt if I will get rice flour with out traces of wheat flour in it since its the wheat that is pounded more here. So I did not want to take any risk and decided to make rice flour at home. And in order not to tax my mixer grinder more, I made thattai and pakoda on alternate days. Thattai should work fine with store bought flour too.




You need

  • Rice flour - 4 cups
  • Urad flour (Roasted and powdered) - 4 tblspn
  • Butter/Ghee- 2 tblspn
  • Chana dal, soaked - 2 tblspn
  • White sesame seeds - 1 tspn
  • Curry leaves few (I did not add)
  • Hing
  • Salt - 2 tpsn
  • Red chilli powder - 2 1/2 tspn
  • Water to make the dough
  • Oil to deep fry


Method

Soak the chana dal for an hour or so. It will make it soft and crunchy on deep frying.

Mix all the ingredients in a wide bowl. See to that the butter/ghee added is mixed thoroughly with the flour. This will ensure crisp thattais. Add water little by little to make a soft, non sticky dough.

Take marble sized dough. Pat it into thin discs on a greased plastic sheet or cotton cloth. Don't make it too thin and it will break while you peel it off.  While patting, see to that the edges are not thicker than the inside.



Heat oil in a kadai. When it is moderately hot, slide the discs and deep fry till golden color. Drain, cool and store in air tight container.

While you make the discs, keep the dough covered with a damp cloth so as not to leave it dry.



With the above measurements, you will get between 45-50 thattais.
 
 
 
 




Wednesday, November 03, 2010

Designing with Fluorescent Lights

Just read an interesting article from the London Telegraph.

Apparently all of Europe will begin tomorrow with its plan to ban incandescent lightbulbs:


"From tomorrow a Europe-wide ban on traditional incandescent bulbs will begin to be rolled out, with a ban on 100W bulbs and old-style frosted or pearled bulbs."

The article details problems with the light level of compact fluorescent lightbulbs (CFLs) labeled as equivalent to the incandescents they are about to replace in European homes. Testing reveals that even the better CFLs achieve only about 2/3 the light intensity of 60W incandescents. That means Europeans are going to need to buy 100W equivalent CFLs to get similar light output they got from their 60W incandescent lightbulbs. Obviously, if they want 100W of light intensity to replace a 100W bulb, they will have to buy 150W equivalent CFLs.

I have been specifying 100% fluorescent lighting in kitchens for many years now (as long as my clients would go along, and most have). I experimented early-on with the amount of light I needed to achieve to get adequate illumination of the space, with the cooperation of some treasured contractors who put up with my futzing.

Because I try very hard to design fluorescent lighting schemes that bounce the light from hidden coves and the tops of cabinets, I early-on realized that the intensity needed to be higher to achieve the desired results. Direct lighting is automatically more intense than indirect lighting. Also, hiding the fixtures, as I prefer to do, means there are only so many places in most kitchens that offer the opportunity to hide a light. And sometimes not enough.

I found if I planned a double row of T12 (the big ones) tubes on top of cabinets in a typical kitchen layout, that would be enough. Later we were able to swap for T8s and then T5s. I put each row on a separate switch, so there is a "high" and "low" for those lights. This scheme provides a pleasant "fill light" in the room. It's called "general lighting" by lighting designers. The great thing about this kind of bounced light is that it picks up the color of the ceiling as it bounces. Consequently we don't have to deal with yucky fluorescent light color. Of course I do also specify that the fluorescent tubes be the best color my clients can afford, or at least minimum warm white.

Then I turn my attention to "task lighting". This is the light that must fall on countertops, where the work of creating a meal happens. Where there are upper cabinets, I use undercabinet lights. In the early days they were Alcko "little inch lights". Fluorescent undercabinet lights that fit neatly in the recess at the bottom of wall cabinets, or behind a light baffle trim. Nowadays I also consider LED undercabinet lights if the budget can tolerate the strain.

In areas where there are no upper cabinets, such as over the sink or an island, I use recessed can lights to light the work surfaces. Early-on they were incandescent downlights, then CFLs. Now I like to use LED downlights like the CREE LR6, which has great color rendering (so tomatoes look red and my skin looks pink).

Beyond general and task lighting, for those kitchens where we are trying to make a statement, I introduce some "accent lighting". Perhaps highlighting a painting or hood with some special sparkle. Others would use halogen here, but I have avoided halogen because of the danger of fire associated with the heat generated by halogen. I prefer LED lighting here as well, and (thank goodness) the inventors have recently obliged with sparkly LED that is very focused. I have also used backlighting behind glass block, edge lighting on a glass or lucite panel, all kinds of playful ways to introduce light as a design element.

So, lighting doesn't have to be just utilitarian...A bare bulb or fluorescent box on the ceiling. Lighting can be a way to make a mundane space really special, a special space spectacular. All it takes is a little extra attention. It's called "design".

Peggy











Chocolate Semiya Kesari

My husband usually searches for sweets, post dinner. Sometimes there may not be even dates, to satisfy his cravings. Depending on the strength of the urge, I'll be asked to make kesari,  since it is a quickie, which can be done in 10 minutes. There is no waiting time also and it can be scooped straight from the pan. On one such night, he suggested semiya (vermicelli) kesari. And I decided to go for half and half of semiya and rava. While cooking, when I had to add the color powder, I thought why not some cocoa e powder. Since I was making a small quantity, I could  afford to experiment. And anything chocolate has to taste good. The end result was so good and then on its mostly chocolate kesari at home. I sometimes make with only semolina or vermicelli.





You  need

  • Rava/Semolina - 1/2 cup
  • Semiya/Vermicelli - 1/2 cup
  • Sugar -1 cup
  • Water - 2 1/2 cup
  • Ghee - 1 tblspn
  • Cocoa powder - 2 tspn
  • Cashew and raisins - few





Method

Roast rava and semiya separately till light brown. If you are using roasted semiya, then no need to roast it again.

Take a kadai and add the measured water. When it starts boiling, add the roasted semiya. When its half cooked, add rava and cocoa powder. Semiya takes more time to cook, hence adding it first. When both rava and semiya is cooked well and the water is fully absorbed, stir in the sugar. Continue cooking till the melts completely and the mixture comes together. Add half a tablespoon of ghee and give it a nice stir.

In a separate pan, heat ghee and add cashews. When cashews start browning, add raisins. Stir in the fried cashews and raisins along with the ghee to the cooked kesari. If you wish to slice them, spread it on a plate greased with ghee. When cool, slice into desired shape.