Saturday, February 13, 2010

New LED Replacement for PAR38 Halogen Lights

Cree has designed a replacement lightbulb for the ubiquitous little halogen bulbs that so many homeowners covet.

I have avoided using halogen recessed lighting because of my abiding concerns with overheating. Those days are over with the LRP-38.

The Cree LRP-38 comes as a screw-in replacement for existing halogen lightbulbs; or with a 2-pin GU24 connector for use in California, conforming with Title 24 (California's energy code).


























Save Energy

* 500 Lumens (Light Output)
* 12 Watt input power
* 41.6 Lumens per Watt (Efficacy)

* Equivalent to 50 to 90W Halogen

Sacrifice Nothing

* 92 CRI (Color Rendering Index)at 2700K (Warm)
* 4000 CBCP (Center Beam Candlepower) with 20° beam angle

Reduce Maintenance Costs

* Designed to last up-to 50,000 hours

Protect the Environment


* Long life, energy savings
* No mercury

Now you, and I, can truly have our cake and eat it too.

Peggy

Friday, February 12, 2010

Choose LED Lighting the Easy Way

There is a big discussion among kitchen designers on Linked-In today about LED tape lights used as undercabinet lighting.

Many designers seem to be using such products for their wow-factor without considering whether they produce adequate light for countertop tasks.

I get a picture of somebody working in their kitchen with a coal miner's lamp on their head.

Instead of using products that will not meet our clients' needs for proper task lighting, why not adhere to the US DOE (Department of Energy) standards for LED lighting?

Their engineers have run the tests and they have labeled tested products with an easy to understand label detailing the quality of the light output by the fixture and lamp(s) in four critical areas, with test results right on the label (kind of like the mileage labels we have seen on cars for years).

It's as easy as this: Look for the label. Don't buy or specify anything that doesn't have the label. Learn to understand the label. Buy the product that most closely meets the needs of the application.


















Anatomy of the Lighting Facts Label

Light Output/Lumens

Measures light output.
The higher the number, the more light is emitted.

Watts
Measures energy required to light the product.
The lower the wattage, the less energy used.

Lumens per Watt/Efficacy
Measures efficiency.
The higher the number, the more efficient the product.

Color Rendering Index (CRI)
Measures color accuracy.
Color rendition is the effect of the lamp's light spectrum on the color appearance of objects.

Correlated Color Temperature (CCT)
Measures light color.
“Cool” colors have higher Kelvin temperatures (3600–5500 K);
“Warm” colors have lower color temperatures (2700–3500 K).

IESNA LM-79-2008
Industry standardized test procedure that measures performance qualities of LED luminaires and integral lamps.
It allows for a true comparison of luminaires regardless of the light source.

Registration Number
Unique number given to each manufacturer and product once they have been registered, verified, and approved.
Only products with valid registration numbers may display the Lighting Facts label.

Model Number
Unique manufacturer's model number for the product.

Type
Specific type of solid-state lighting fixture.

Brand
The brand the product is available under.

There is even a DOE web site listing all of the products that have been tested and approved so far: LightingFacts.com, as well as the judging criteria for each application (so you can understand the label) in their Residential Product Performance Scale.

I have taken their pledge to:


* Evaluate LED product quality by using the Lighting Facts label, which reports performance testing data that measures:

o Lumen output
o Luminaire efficacy
o Power input
o Correlated Color Temperature
o Color Rendering Index

* Use and promote products from manufacturers who participate in the SSL Quality Advocates program.

Therefore I will check all lighting products I post about, from now on, to make sure they have been tested and approved.

Buying LED lighting has just gotten a whole lot easier.

Peggy


07/16/2010
An addendum to this post:

Apparently, the Lighting Facts label is so successful it is now being COUNTERFEITED!


Verify that the Lighting Facts label presented by the manufacturer is a legitimate label
“Buyer (and specifier) beware” – not all labels are legitimate Lighting Facts labels!
Never assume that a label presented to you is accurate. Always refer to the product list on the program web site, www.lightingfacts.com/products, to verify whether: 


o   Items are registered with the program
o   Performance values provided match values listed and verified by the program



04/08/11
A second addendum to this post:


The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) announced that it will extend the deadline for the new consumer Lighting Facts product label from July 2011 to January 1, 2012. This decision was made after reviewing public comments. The new deadline will allow manufacturers more time to incorporate the label on their bulb packages. However, the FTC encourages manufacturers to incorporate the new labels on their packaging as soon as possible.

The new FTC Lighting Facts label emphasizes lumen output, estimated yearly energy cost, life, light appearance, and wattage. This information will help consumers choose the right bulb for their lighting needs, while shifting the focus from wattage to lumens. This effort is especially important with the Energy Independence and Security Act legislation which impacts light bulbs beginning in 2012.



What Is The Right Water Pressure For Your Home?

When it comes to water pressure in your home, everybody has an opinion on what is adequate. One family member's trickle of water is another family member's high-power firehose. One way to arrive at a peaceful settlement is to determine your home's water pressure in a definitive measurable way. Thus, having periodic water pressure readings is always a good idea.

A water pressure reading will tell you exactly how forceful your water is in PSI (pounds per square inch). Normal water pressure is generally between 40 and 60 PSI; most homeowners prefer something right in the middle around 50 PSI. Once you measure your home's water pressure, you can adjust it to a setting that is ideal for all family members and household uses.

Checking and adjusting your water pressure can also save you money and improve the quality of your life. If the water pressure is too high, you may be using too much water each day; if it's too low, you may be taking longer to perform cleaning and bathing tasks or not adequately getting the job done. (If you're a shower taker, chances are you want all the pressure you can get!)

Water pressure readings are a great way to monitor the health of your plumbing system. Sudden changes in water pressure could be a sign of a serious plumbing problem. Decreases in water pressure and flow could indicate a serious blockage somewhere in your piping. And surges in water pressure intensity are not normal and could put undue stress on pipes, fixtures and appliances (such as your washing machine and dishwasher). Too much pressure can also wear down washers, cause faucets to drips and leaks, as well as make toilets run constantly

A plumber can always take a water pressure reading for you. But if you're a hands-on homeowner, this is something you can do for yourself. Many homes have a water pressure gauge -- usually in the basement or near an outdoor spigot. You can also purchase water pressure gauges in most hardware stores for $10-20. These water pressure gauges are pretty easy to install, operate and read; just screw on to any indoor or outdoor faucet. You should try to take a reading from as many faucets as possible including outdoor hose spigots and the faucet that connects to your washing machine.


Don't Have Time to Install and Use a Water Pressure Gauge? Try the Multi-Flow Test!

Here's a simple low-tech way to see if your home has or doesn't have adquate water pressure. Run a washing machine or dishwasher; then turn on a couple of sinks in the house, as well as the shower and other plumbing fixtures. If water doesn't flow strongly out of any of these faucets and fixtures, or flows fine on one floor but not on another, you probably should increase your water pressure.


Adjusting Your Water Pressure

Most houses built in the last 25-30 years have a pressure reducing valve on the supply line coming into the house. It's usualy pretty simple to adjust that valve to increase or reduce the water pressure. First, locate the valve; most likely it will be found near your water meter in the basement or possibly in a crawlspace. The pressure reducing valve is made of brass with a bell-shaped middle section with a screw in the end of the bell.

Turning that screw adjusts the water pressure. To increase your water pressure you tighten the screw down by turning it clockwise; to decrease the water pressure, turn the screw counter-clockwise. Do this in small increments, making sure to measure your water pressure after each adjustment.

If these adjustments don't work for you, if you're not comfortable making these adjustments yourself or if you live in an older home, we recommend calling a plumber. A plumber can find the pressure reducer valve (or install one if your home doesn't have one). Your plumbing professional can also identify if your bad water pressure is due to a more serious problem in your piping or outside of your house.


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