Floor and shower drains are designed to withstand far more abuse than sink and toilet drains. However, drains in floors and showers are also more likely to accumulate the kind of debris that commonly forms clogs. Hair, bits of soap, shampoo residue, and other waste materials get caught just below the surface of the drain and can be hard to remove.
Shower drains -- whether in standing-only showers or tub and shower combinations -- may be the most frequent clogged drains in your house. With daily use, hair and other materials get caught in the drain and collect. Chances are if your shower is clogged it’s because of hair. The easiest way to try to get rid of the blockage is to pour a common, over-the-counter hair removal product like Nair or Vet down the drain. The depilatory will dissolve the hair and clear the clog. You can also try a simple solution of baking soda and plain white vinegar to dissolve the blockage. These solutions are much safer for you, your drains and your pipes then lye, Drano and other store-bought liquid drain cleaning products.
If your shower drain is clogged all the time, you may want to purchase a new drain cover or an inexpensive plastic catch (like the ones you use in kitchen sinks without garbage disposals) that’s specifically designed for showers. These will prevent more hair from going down the drain and should reduce the frequency of clogging.
If you’ve tried all of this and are still having problems, you should think about calling in a drain cleaning professional. Your drain might need to be taken apart in order to remove the clog; if you don’t know how to do this, it’s best left to a professional plumber. Be sure to ask about the general condition of the drain and your main sewer line, too. Corrosion, weakened couplings and connections, root infiltration, and other situations can affect the shower drain’s function.
Clogged floor drains are a special kind of plumbing matter. Typically found in laundry rooms, basements, and garages, these drains are often the final resting place for all kinds of nasty debris—lint, sand, oil, dirt, and other solid materials—as well as wastewater from washing machines, air conditioners, water heaters, and more. These substances can collect and harden in the drain; even powerful commercial chemical drain cleaners are not enough to get rid of clogs that have crystallized. Furthermore, if left untreated, a clogged floor drain can cause water to back up into your home causing expensive damage.
If you suspect a clogged floor drain, rent a power pipe snake that will break through the clog with special cutting blades. You may have to take apart some of the drain assembly, as many floor drains are designed to make accessing clogs or blockages easier. However, knowing how to disassemble your drain and knowing where to apply the snake can be tricky business. If you’re unsure about this method, it’s best to call in a plumbing and drain cleaning contractor. A plumbing and drain professional will not only get rid of the clog, but will also check the general state of your pipes and give you some tips about avoiding problems in the future.
Related Drain Cleaning Information from Horizon Services...
Friday, July 16, 2010
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
Kara Sev for Indian Cooking Challenge
Srivalli challenged us this month to prepare kara sev, as part of the monthly Indian Cooking Challenge event. I missed the previous three challenges in a row. So this time, I prepared as soon as it was announced instead of usual practise of making it nearing the post date. Kara sev was in my to-do list for a long time. I very much wanted to try it making with the ladle. I understand that there is a special ladle for that. I tried making with the perforated ladle. The holes are big enough in that. I found it very hard to press down the dough. It was falling perfect, about one inch in length. But it was time consuming. I guess it requires lot of practise. So eventually I went back to the murukku press and it was easy to press.
You need
- Gram Flour (Besan)- 2 1/2 cups
- Rice flour - 1 cup
- Chilli powder - 1/2 tsp
- Black pepper coarsely powdered - 1 tsp
- Ghee - 2 1/2 tsp
- Cooking soda - a pinch
- Salt to taste.
- Oil to deep fry.
Air Ducts 101
What You Can't See May Be Costing Hundreds of Dollars in Wasted Heating and Air Conditioning Bills!
Your heating and cooling systems use more energy than any other system in your home. Typically, 46% of your entire utility bill goes for heating and air conditioning alone. For many homeowners, a large chunk of that heating and cooling bill may be completely wasted...and the culprit is hidden out of sight beneath your feet and over your head.
Your home’s air duct system is a complex network of tubes made of sheet metal, fiberglass or other materials that runs throughout your walls, floors, and ceilings, carrying heated or cooled air from your home’s furnace and central air conditioner to each room. But if these air ducts have leaks or are poorly insulated, as much as 60% of your heated or cooled air can be lost before it even reaches the registers in these rooms. That can result in a lot of wasted energy...and money. As well, ducts that are damaged or don’t work properly can create serious, life-threatening carbon monoxide (CO) problems in the home.
Sealing and insulating air ducts that are in unconditioned spaces -- such as an attic, crawl space or basement -- is extremely important and can be a great way to get a handle on out-of-control heating and cooling costs. Insulation if fairly easy to install on existing duct work. If you are buying a new duct system, consider one that comes with insulation already installed. Sealing your air ducts to prevent leaks is even more important if you want to save energy and money. If the supply ducts are leaking, large amounts of heated or cooled air can be forced out of holes or unsealed joints and lost. In addition, unconditioned air can be drawn into return ducts through unsealed joints. In the summer, hot attic air can be drawn in, increasing the load on the air conditioner. In the winter, your furnace will have to work longer to keep your house comfortable. Either way, your energy losses can cost you big bucks.
In most cases, air ducts in unconditioned spaces should be sealed and insulated by a qualified HVAC and duct work professional using appropriate sealing and insulation materials -- especially if the air ducts are concealed. If you're a handy do-it-yourselfer, here are a few simple tips to help with minor or temporary repairs to visible duct work.
Your heating and cooling systems use more energy than any other system in your home. Typically, 46% of your entire utility bill goes for heating and air conditioning alone. For many homeowners, a large chunk of that heating and cooling bill may be completely wasted...and the culprit is hidden out of sight beneath your feet and over your head.
Your home’s air duct system is a complex network of tubes made of sheet metal, fiberglass or other materials that runs throughout your walls, floors, and ceilings, carrying heated or cooled air from your home’s furnace and central air conditioner to each room. But if these air ducts have leaks or are poorly insulated, as much as 60% of your heated or cooled air can be lost before it even reaches the registers in these rooms. That can result in a lot of wasted energy...and money. As well, ducts that are damaged or don’t work properly can create serious, life-threatening carbon monoxide (CO) problems in the home.
Sealing and insulating air ducts that are in unconditioned spaces -- such as an attic, crawl space or basement -- is extremely important and can be a great way to get a handle on out-of-control heating and cooling costs. Insulation if fairly easy to install on existing duct work. If you are buying a new duct system, consider one that comes with insulation already installed. Sealing your air ducts to prevent leaks is even more important if you want to save energy and money. If the supply ducts are leaking, large amounts of heated or cooled air can be forced out of holes or unsealed joints and lost. In addition, unconditioned air can be drawn into return ducts through unsealed joints. In the summer, hot attic air can be drawn in, increasing the load on the air conditioner. In the winter, your furnace will have to work longer to keep your house comfortable. Either way, your energy losses can cost you big bucks.
In most cases, air ducts in unconditioned spaces should be sealed and insulated by a qualified HVAC and duct work professional using appropriate sealing and insulation materials -- especially if the air ducts are concealed. If you're a handy do-it-yourselfer, here are a few simple tips to help with minor or temporary repairs to visible duct work.
- Check your ducts for obvious air leaks. Look for sections of duct work that should be joined but have separated, as well as for holes or punctures.
- If you use tape to seal your ducts, avoid the common cloth-backed, rubber adhesive duct tape that you can get at any old store. This garden variety duct tape tends to fail quickly. Instead, most HVAC and duct contractors recommend professional quality mastic, butyl, foil or other heat-resistant tapes. Look for tape with the Underwriters Laboratories (UL) logo.
- Be award that insulating ducts in the basement will make the basement colder. If the heat ducts are fully insulated, water pipes and drains in the basement could freeze and burst if the basement temperature gets too cold. Use electric heating tape wrap on your pipes to prevent this. Also consider insulating your basement walls to hold more heat in or installing heating in your basement.
- If your basement has been converted to a living area, hire a professional to install both supply and return registers in the basement rooms.
- Make sure that a well-sealed vapor barrier exists on the outside of the insulation on cooling ducts to prevent moisture from building up.
Related Heating and Air Conditioning Information from Horizon Services...
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